Journal Europe, April-May 2009
4/22/09 12:25 am Wednesday - Lafayette
I am so excited that I cannot even begin to sleep. I took two simply sleep. Hopefully, it will kick in soon. The thought of going to Europe-Italy Austria and France seems like a dream.
We are packed two suitcases (medium) 8# each. One carry-on a 20” foldable duffle and one day bag. I have made copies of all documents, DL, passports, credit cards etc. We could not be better equipped. I ordered euro’s from the bank and got US cash. We will wake at 6am and depart for flight at 8am. We will drop off our dog, Jackson and carry on. Pick up Marcy and she will drop us at airport. Our flight leaves at 10:25 to Houston. We will have a 3 ½ hr. layover in Houston. Sigh! Grab a cocktail and we will be on our way. I feel very blessed. I hope we have fun!
4/22/09 10:20 am Wednesday - Lafayette
We are on the plane! I’m listening to Andrea Bocelli and it just hit me! I will wake up in the morning in Paris and head to Rome!
4/23/09 Thursday – Rome, Italy
Made it to Rome. Check in to The Westin Excelsior. Beautiful hotel. Take a walk up and down the street, Via Venetto. Stop in at a café and have a glass of wine and watch the traffic swirl by. Amazing how fast they go. Our first toast, “To Rome!”
We head back to the hotel to be picked up for our Rome by Night Tour. On a bus looking at the monuments lit up. We stop at the Trevi Fountain. Bellisima! It starts to rain.
Who cares? We buy umbrellas from a street vendor and take in the view. Had a glass of wine at a hole in the wall café just off the ally by the fountain. The “Boss Lady” as the waiters, who were clearly related, called her was mouthing off orders in Italian. She was a very feisty old Italian woman. Our first taste of local culture. We stopped at another piazza that had three fountains glowing in the rain. It was beautiful. From there went to dinner at Casanova. It was included in the tour. Turns out we had the whole restaurant to ourselves with live entertainment to boot. When the lady singing belted out O Sole Mia, I knew I was no longer dreaming. We were in Italy! The dinner was very good and so was the vino! The pianist topped off the evening with What a Wonderful World by Louis Armstrong! How sweet it is!
4/24/09 Friday – Rome, Italy
We woke up in Rome! Gold leaf ceilings and crystal chandeliers was my first view in our room. Going sightseeing today. Segway tour at 9(200e for 3 ½ hrs.), Vatican etc. Hopefully we get lost and can’t get back home! Began day early…lost track of David first thing. Bad communication. He was waiting for me in restaurant and I was waiting in the room for 45 min. Finally walked down to find him (eating breakfast). Okay back on track.
We took a cab to coliseum. We had 1 ½ hr. before our Segway torture(I mean tour) would begin. Had heard about the lines being so long at the coliseum, so we decided to try to get tickets early and go back later. It turns out no one was there and because of culture week it was free. We walked right in and had the place to ourselves, well with the ghosts of thousands of Romans from times gone by. Amazing to think they had the means or slaves to build that so long ago. Took a few pictures and made our way out. Oh by the way, there’s the Roman Forum! Everywhere you look, you want to take a picture!
So we decide to get in touch with our adventurous side and head over to the Segway office. We are soon introduced to our little Italian dessert(I mean guide), Marchello. Even the name? C’mon? This is going to be great! Boy did the Gods have something different in store for us! After a brief intro in the very small indoor office, it was shaky but we stayed on, Marchello said we will go to the practice park. We got our gear on, the big touristy blue helmet (David’s had flames), the ear buds connected to a transmitter on a big blue lanyard around our neck. Okay I have my camera around my neck and David has the video around his. We are lookin’ good. That is until Marchello puts on this white Pamama Jack hat sans the tourist paraphernalia and asks if we are ready. We really looked stupid!
So then he tells us we have to pull the segway uphill to the practice park. Let’s just say we were ready to ride after that! So the two others in our group – Jeanette is about 67 and her daughter, Stephanie about 45. We all hop on and are doing pretty well if I do say so myself. I was actually kind of proud for picking it up! With that I started pushing the limit on speed. In doing this in the “learning mode” the Segway is set to only go a certain speed and if you go faster, it tries to overcompensate. Well I over compensated into the grass and just as I was about to overcompensate up the children’s slide I jumped off, gracefully trying to stop the damned thing from running over me. So as everyone has a good laugh, I get back on the horse and give another whirl. I am going a bit slower and trying to be careful, but the anticipation of roaming the hazardous streets of Rome is daunting. It seems like everyone else is just gliding around. David is doing exceptionally well. I see him doing donuts and waving to me as he speeds by. So while I am getting a private lesson from Marchello on all the things I am doing wrong. By the way thinking about skipping the “know it all” Italian “dessert”, but he was nice to me and patient. Well there’s some sort of noise behind us that sounds like a car peeling out in gravel. Did I mention the park is all gravel? Well we turn around to find David’s blue flamed helmet nestled in the gravel! He popped up so fast; it was like he was trying his own little stunt. He was okay, so he led us to believe. I would later realize he was in pain after seeing the pint of blood that had dried down his shin. But how can someone wearing blue flames complain about a skinned knee, especially to the “dessert” and three women!
Okay practice park out of the way, we all shakily turn our sights onto the hilly cobblestoned streets of Rome. Well, it truly turned out to be an adventure. We went to places we would have never seen on foot. The views from atop the hills were breathtaking. We especially like the view of Rome from the Orange Garden terrace on Aventine Hill. After we went there, 2 hrs into our tour, we were getting more confident and starting to get the feeling back in our numb burning feet. Our shoulders were even loosening up and the cramping was going away. This is when we should have realized not to let our guard down. Let me just point out at this point the Marchello, aka “the little Italian dessert”, rides his segway with a stagger, hands in his pocket, and with that damned white hat that once looked so good! Well a couple of times, he did save my life when I careened out of control, but anyway, I really don’t like dessert all that much!
Next we went down a very steep cobblestone road, or path I should say. We mastered it! I was feeling very confident. Next stop, The Mouth of Truth. The Mouth of Truth seems like it would be tucked away in a little corner, but it is actually on one of the busiest, about 6 lane road in Rome. Well, I decided I wanted a picture. The line was very long, so I decided to take the picture from outside of the gate. Marchello graciously held my Segway while I got the shot. So I get back on to back up, but my feet were on too far back. I began going backwards into the street yelling at the top of my lungs and finally managed to jump off to save my life! Well let’s just say all the people waiting in line for the Mouth of Truth got their moneys worth and I can guarantee that if they were planning to do a segway tour, I squashed their plans to smithereens! No blood shed, but let’s just say my cup did not runeth over with pride. Poor Marchello, we were not helping his business. Shaken but not stirred, we trudged on.
Next uphill, narrow road with a huge curve, we get about halfway up and Marchello turns and says “Where’s David?” He had been pulling up the rear, when we turned, no more blue flames. Mr. white hat goes to save him! He was too far back on the Segway and it wouldn’t go uphill. Okay so we make it to the top and at this point Stephanie starts trying to dance with hers on the sidewalk, needless to say, she ended up flat on her back with the segway on top of her. Whew 3 down 2 to go. I am feeling better about my fall. Well after this we made it back slowly and carefully acutely aware of our inability.
Jeanette the oldest never did fall. I think it was because she was the most relaxed. We return the Segways and go in search of pizza and a huge bottle of vino! No Dessert! I am done with “dessert” forever!
We stopped at a café overlooking the coliseum to have a glass of wine and wait for the hop on hop off bus. Well we should have never hopped on. Rush hour traffic, dead stopped. Our only salvation…we are in a nice comfortable seat instead of laid out on pavement.
Too late to go to Vatican. We head to the Spanish Steps. Got really lost going uphill both ways, but finally made it. It was worth the wait! Sunset, WOW! The hot pink azaleas were in bloom and the sky was every shade of pink and orange. Had a glass of wine and a cheese and prosciutto plate before at a little café.
Jet lag was catching us by the tail. Went back to the room and went to sleep at 7pm. Woke at 12am and realized nothing, not even room service was open. We ate Pringles and Oreos from the mini bar! Nightclub downstairs played music until 5am, but we slept anyway!
4/25/09 Saturday – Rome, Italy
Got a taxi to the Vatican at 8am. Tour buses galore! We knew we wouldn’t get in, but took a few pictures and bought some mementos. The whole thing is unbelievable. The number of people waiting to get into St. Peter’s was unreal.
I bought stamps at the Vatican Poste and mailed postcards. Quick taxi back to hotel. Checked out and had to tell them, out loud in the lobby, what we had out of the minibar. Embarrassing! Champagne and caviar would have sounded better! Got a taxi to the train station (11e)
Well here we are at the train station with the other hundred thousand travelers. What do we do? It wasn’t easy. We finally, carrying our luggage mind you, found a euro rail lounge. Well the first thing we recognized is that no one in here was out of breath like us. They reluctantly helped us and sent us on our way. So we were checked in and waiting for the train. We had about 1 ½ wait. We had overshot the time a little. Next… lunch. We find a restaurant. Well you have to order and pay at the cashier before you get your food. Cashier on one side on counter and food that we want all the way at the other end. So the sandwich that we can’t pronounce will not stay in my memory long enough for me to get to the cashier and order it. I order pizza for us because I can say it. David has espresso and I have a diet coke or as they say a coke light. We each get a very small piece of pizza and are still hungry. We peruse through the train station trying to look like we know what we are doing. We find a Japanese restaurant and David orders two glasses of wine. After we drink our lukewarm wine, we set off to find our train. There it is! We make our way to the train and what do you know? There is the #1 car we are looking for. A nice man in a back brace helps with luggage after assuring us we were in the right place. So kind! Well we must have had a “Take advantage of us!” sign on our back. We sit with another couple from Houston, TX. The nice man helped them with their luggage also. Then our “nice man” comes to us and asks for 10e per couple. I see the other couple giving him money. Because we know to give the notion that what we are doing, I hurriedly take out our money to give the nice man. Then here comes another nice man selling water and sandwiches. I buy a water for 2e. At this point we are starting to talk to the other couple. We hear the couple behind us talking about being taken in by the nice men! We were taken too! They do not work for the train. They simply get on at the station and sell their services or food and water. How stupid! Live and learn! Our ticket actually included drinks and food! Oh well, on our way to Firenze (Florence). We will carry our own luggage the three feet from the platform to the train next time!
4/25/09 Saturday 2pm – Florence, Italy
Arrive in Florence – Small train station, easy to navigate. Got a taxi to Hotel Helvetia and Bristol. (11e to go 3 blocks!) (It is at this time that we stop trying to calculate how much this would be in $. The exchange rate is $1.40 for 1 euro) Check-in, nice boutique hotel with first class service. “Cool” temp in room. We head out to do some sightseeing. We had pizza for lunch and lose ourselves in the piazzas and history of Florence. Note: need to buy a scarf. Everyone wears scarves, even when it is warm! It is chilly though. We ate at il David for snack. While we are sitting there. David strikes up conversation with some Italiano sitting next to us. Turns out he owns a store in Florence and frequents New York. A Mr. Joe David Redi owns Nannini and Calzaiuoli Leather Factory. He knows Eli and Peyton Manning and is their clothier. Who knew? We don’t really know how much to believe after the whole train scam, but he wasn’t wanting money, so he was our new best friend. He even suggested a few places to go and dine. We took his advice and went to a restaurant near our hotel. This would end up being the ONLY bad meal of the trip. David got a T-bone steak that should have never been removed from the cow, it was so big and hard it was hideous! I got a filet covered in a horrible burgundy sauce. We ran into our new friend at the restaurant. He skipped out before our horrible meat arrived. Walked back to hotel. Still a lovely city!
4/26/09 Sunday – Florence and Tuscany Region(Pisa, San Gimignano, Sienna) , Italy
Woke early at 6am, David had breakfast. I dress. Today will be our “One day in Tuscany Tour”.
Guy picks us up at 7:15. Wait for a few people, a Chinese girl with a camera, hostel people-one couple from Colorado make a little trouble at end of the day, a mother daughter team from Australia. Indian couple from Australia, another mother daughter team. “Set out for a twelve hour tour, a twelve hour tour…the weather started getting rough” not really just mild drizzle. Off to Pisa first. It is about 20 minutes into our 12 hour tour that I realize the video camera did not charge overnight. The outlets are always iffy. David had hard time charging phone. Anyway the one thing I wanted to video, I could not. I stayed awake to Pisa, David slept. It was so beautiful driving through such a pretty area. Vineyards everywhere!
We arrive in Pisa – long walk through inner city to gate of Cathedral and Tower. It truly is beautiful and amazing that it hasn’t fallen. We took a lot of pictures. Viewed the baptistery and church. Mass going on in Cathedral was beautiful!
Stop at a café for a pannini and we get back on the bus headed for San Gimignano 1 hour ahead. What a surprise, after a wonderful drive through Tuscany and Chianti region, we stopped at a real vineyard! This is where we had lunch and wine tasting. This was truly a treat the owner was so animated. I could barely snap a picture of him without it being blurry. We bought some wine, olive oil, truffle oil, balsamic vinegar and had it shipped home.
I would have loved his mother’s recipe for one dish. It was eggplant, tomato, potato=heaven. It was like a mush. Anyway, we had a wonderful time. Will get dessert at the next stop, San Gimignano, also known as The Medieval Manhattan. Only thirteen towers are left, but it creates a skyline like none other in Tuscany. When we arrived it was raining. Not to worry, we have our trusty umbrellas from Rome. Got a gelato at world-renowned gelato shop. Walked the very hilly streets, took pictures. It was so lovely and quaint. I particularly remember this old woman looking out her window in the town square at all he tourists. She must despise having her little gem of a city infiltrated.
For the most part though, the visitors are extremely respectful of the residents. Not loud or rambunctious. Find a pay toilet(.50e or sometimes 1e) always have an attendant taking the money. It is very worth the money. Nice and clean! The couple from Colorado got lost. So that puts us back a little 30 min. But we had a guide waiting on us in Sienna. Get back on bus to Sienna.
Arrive in Sienna and meet with guide. Colorado couple cause a problem. Want to go out on their own. Our guide got angry and said no. Hindsight, they would have really got lost here. We were very happy to have a guided tour! We toured the cathedral. Magnifico! Then to Piazza in Sienna – free time for 1hr.
David and I got bottle of wine at an outdoor café and sat and watched the most beautiful Piazza we have seen so far. At this point let me say, the wine is not nearly as potent as what we usually drink. It is very light and fruity and cheaper than water! Although we did drink our share of water! Just sitting and taking in the sights are the main things people do. It truly is a relaxing way of life! We were lost in the magic! Reassembled with group and drove back to Florence. Sabina, the tour guide gave me a wealth of information for Florence.
Got back to Florence, took bath and dresses. We went to the Piazza de Republica for dinner at an outdoor café. I had lasagna, David had spaghetti. After dinner we rode the antique merry-go-round and had a ball!
4/27/09 Monday – Florence, Italy
We had a full day of sightseeing today. Went to breakfast and wandered streets of Florence. toured the Duomo, Baptistery. I didn’t really know what all the baptisteries were about. Well years and years ago, you had to be baptized to enter a catholic church. So they had these huge Baptisteries built right outside of the church. It is the big usually round building in front of the churches. We walked all day and had a wonderful lunch – pizza of course. The pizza is so different. Flat crust, hardly any sauce, not much cheese, usually vegetables, not much meat. very good but not too filling. Actually perfect! Finally found a scarf boutique. Went to the outdoor Sculpture museum. Walked along the Arno River. Just took our time and relaxed.
Went back to hotel for a nap. Around 5pm we left in search of “the most beautiful view of Florence.” High on a mountain overlooking Florence in Piazza Le Michaelangelo. We took a taxi. Quite far. Would have been too far to walk. When we got up there it was breathtaking. The sun was still out, but it was drizzling. We went to Bar Michaelangelo and got a bottle of wine and watched the sun go down over Florence and the Tuscan hills. That memory will stay with me forever. We decided to have dinner here. Very light: bread and cheese plate with cold cuts. Once the sun went down, it stopped raining we went out to the large terrace and watched the city twinkle below. It was like a fairytale. Our pictures did not do the moment justice.
Grabbed a gelato and a taxi back to the hotel. Very tired and need to rest! I have never walked so much in my life!
4/28/09 Tuesday AM – Florence, Italy
Woke at 6:30. Went to breakfast. Left hotel at 8am to go to the Accademia. Got there early. We were done by 9:15. Saw the original 17 foot statue of David by Michaelangelo. I like mine better! We then had time to go to the Bargello. Wonderful museum full of frescoes and marble statues. We head back to hotel to go to train station. Since using the packing cube system, our unpacking and repacking is a breeze. Everything stays neat and wrinkle free.
Get a taxi to train station. We are early, of course. It is weird. There are no benches in the train stations. I guess to deter sleepers. We find a place to sit on a sign. I set off in search of food and drink. I bought wine & a cheese and prosciutto sandwich for the train and McDonalds for lunch. Get this 1e for a hamburger & 2.50e for a coke.
Met a couple on the train on their honeymoon. We are headed to Venice! Can’t wait!
4/28/09 Tuesday 3:30pm – Venice, Italy
Just arrived in Venice. Walked out of the train station and there she was in all her glory. We were as giddy as teenagers. I took pictures, David took video. Originally we were going to take the water bus, but decided to splurge on a water taxi. A boat all to ourselves. 70e for one way trip. We were staying all the way down the grand Canal from the train station. We could barely contain ourselves and videoed and took pictures of everything! We started out riding down some smaller canals and then low and behold he turned onto the Grand Canal right by the Rialto Bridge. It was one of the most memorable moments! We marvel at all the boats and architecture. There is St. Mark’s Square. I can’t wait to go. We turn into a small canal and the Taxi brings us to the side entrance of our hotel Locanda Vivaldi. Everyone greeted us in English. We are brought to our room on the first floor, which is really the second. The lobby floor is 0. Anyway, the bellman opens the curtains and voila, we have all of Venice right outside of our window. Lagoon view with a view of the Grand Canal, St. Marks Square and cafés below. We drop everything and head straight to the terrace on the third floor. The views are spectacular! Next stop, St. Marks Square. Sit at a café and order 2 glasses of wine (25e)
There is an orchestra playing and we have the most beautiful view!!! We sit for awhile and just try to digest everything!
We walk the streets/paths over a lot of bridges and canals. Only foot traffic and boats. No cars or bikes.
We happen upon a Gondola and the Gondolier beckons us. (OK twist, twist!) We grab a bottle of vino, use the water closet and we are off on a gondola in the small canals of Venice! Bellisima! The quiet in the Canals if deafening .When you do hear a noise it echos. Our gondolier begins to serenade us! Very romantic. We turn onto the Grand canal and go under the Rialto Bridge. It was magical.
After 50 minutes (95e), the gondolier sends us to a little Trattoria. We had mussels, David had fish and I had lasagna. The seafood is very fresh. Venice is on the Adriatic Sea.
We ended the evening where we began, on the third floor terrace. We stopped a picked up a bottle of wine (7e) and sat and watched Venice at night. We were all alone! It’s really neat because a lot of people do Venice as a day trip and stay on the mainland. Early in the morning and evening, Venice takes on a life of its own! I had read this on the internet and was skeptical, but it is very true!
4/29/09 Wednesday – Venice, Italy
Wake up to the sound of ferries and boats coming in to dock. We slept with the windows open and it was very cool and breezy. The hotel had a nice breakfast room that we had all to ourselves. Eggs, toast, bacon, fruit. We had decided to walk the streets of Venice and get lost. Wonderful! A neat picture around every corner. We weren’t so keen on the whole getting lost thing when we needed a water closet. Alas, we found a café, ordered an espresso and used facilities. The little shot of coffee got us rolling again. We walked almost the whole island. Crossed the Rialto bridge, went through several campo’s and piazza’s and finally found our way back to have lunch on the Grand Canal by the Rialto Bridge at Rive De Vin. Bellisima!
After lunch – pizza! We bought a water bus pass for two days (26e each) We rode the length of the Grand Canal and got off at St. Marks square. Went to Hotel and took a nap. Refreshed!
We went down to the lagoon and got a gondola for 1 ½ hr. Later it starts to rain. Once again who cares? We pull under a bridge and the gondolier changes into a rain suit. Venice in the rain, in a gondola! We were wet, cold and having the time of our life! As we got out of the gondola, our whole bag spilled. We lost a camera battery.
We found a place for dinner right behind St. Marks Square. David had been on a hunt for Meatballs and spaghetti ever since we got to Italy. No meatballs to be found! Well we found them at Falciani Ristorante One bottle of Chianti and a “Mamma Mia” special and we were set. I had fabulous lasagna.
We ended the night with a little orchestra music in St. Mark's Square...
4/30/09 Thursday -_Venice, Italy & Day trip to Murano, Italy
Woke up early, had breakfast. We were going to see St. Marks Basilica. The line is already too long. We decided to take a boat to Murano instead. Murano is the island where they do the blown glass. Years ago, they were so afraid of the fires from the glass factories, Venice forced the glass blowers to move to Murano. The ride took 45 minutes. It was a lovely little village with lots of glass galleries/shops.
We had lunch there beside a little canal. Seafood Risotto with clams and shrimp for me and meatballs and zuchini for David. We just walked around and took in the sights. Caught the boat back to Venice and it was time to rest.
Get up and walk around again. Too many wonderful routes to take. We stop in at the infamous Harry’s Bar for a world famous bellini made with champagne and fresh red peaches. (12e for a very small juice size glass). Needless to say, we only have one!
Walked most of the afternoon and went to the same restaurant as the night before and even ordered the same thing. We sat outside. nice view of St. Marks Basilica. Walked around a bit more and went back to hotel. Walking around Venice is indescribable. I know I am not doing it justice. There are so many little nooks and crannies to look at. Everything looks like a postcard. We even enjoyed looking at the laundry hanging from the windows! It was magical!
5/1/09 Friday - Venice, Italy to Salzburg, Austria
Woke up early. Left hotel at 7:30 after breakfast. Took water bus to Rialto fish and produce market. Not too much in yet, but it was still neat. Stopped for a cappuccino at a café. A cappuccino in Venice! Walked to the outdoor shopping market. Took video of David on Rialto Bridge watching wooden hull boats. Mesmerized!
We walked back through St. Marks square one last time. Went back to the hotel and packed up. Went to the café below for one more bottle of wine and one last fantastic view!
Got souvenirs, will have to ship home from Salzburg. We are loaded down. Got a water taxi and went a completely different route than the first time so we got to see the other side of the island. Arrive at the train station and have hamburgers in outdoor café listening to American Indian wind music. David buys a CD and gets to take his picture with the Indian. He is very proud!
On to Kufstein, Austria. We are on the train and meet a couple from Rhode Island Brad and Beth Asher. Very nice couple. We had a great time for this very long train ride (7hrs) Well, at about this point I guess someone up there thinks we need another great story to laugh about later. So here it goes.
We get to the Kufstein station and all 4 of us are debating whether or not to get off. I take it upon myself to find out if this is our stop. They had not made any announcements. So I go to the dining car and the guy in there cannot help me. Sends me to the conductor who is standing outside smoking. I ask for his help. He tells me to talk to this gentleman down the platform. I ask if I have time to get off the train. I am sure you can see where this is going. I run down to talk to the man and he tells me if I am going to Salzburg, I need to stay there. I said I have to get my husband. He says “He’s right there” and points down to Brad and Beth who had gotten off. I told him that was not David. I went to get back on the train and the conductor would not let back on.
Just as I was six inches from the door, the door closed and David was off to Munich, Germany without me. I am standing on the platform with nothing. No money, passport, phone nothing! I am freaking out with repeated OMG’s Beth and Brad come over and said “We told David to get off the train, but he wouldn’t get off without you”. OMG! What to do? I try to get the station guy to call the train to tell David to get off at the next station. After awhile, he reluctantly agrees. He calls the train and they get David off in Rosenheim, Germany. Now I have to wait for a train to go meet him. When I finally do get there, I am in tears, but okay. David, having to get all of the luggage off of the train alone, manages to get his second bloody knee tripping over the luggage. Needless to say, we had a quiet ride on to Salzburg, Austria. We arrived in Salzburg about 2 hours behind schedule, tired and ready for bed. We stopped at Burger King and in true country bumpkin status arrived at our hotel looking miserable and carrying Burger King. We shower, eat and go to bed. Thank God we are here! Safe and together!! From this point forward, we fashioned a rope out of socks and tied ourselves together!
5/2/09 Saturday – Salzburg, Austria
5/3/09 Sunday - Salzburg, Austria & Day trip around Lakes Rregion, Hallstatt, Austria
Wake around 7am. Dress, Breakfast/Brunch. I am running out of cassette for my video camera. Look for store. Nothing! Everything is closed because it’s Sunday. There is also a marathon going on that makes logistics difficult. Our driver Ernest (pronounced Enst) picks us up at 10am. We introduce ourselves, but he will continue to call us Lady and Sir throughout the day. He grew up in a “willage” about 20 minutes outside of Salzburg. We start on the same journey as the day before, however after scoffing at the tour we took the day before, he takes us to a real gem on the lake a castle turned 5 star hotel.; We would like to stay, but must press on. Next stop, Bad Ischl for coffee and cake. As he puts it, kissing all fingers at once, it is fantastic! Best cake ever! No kidding, not only was our cake superb, I had banana and chocolate, David had carrot cake, but the town was charming as well. Next stop Hallstatt, or so we thought. I remember on the way no tape! I asked Ernest- He says “Oh, Lady, it is Sunday, everything closed!” I am so mad at myself.
We encounter a run/race going on as we travel through the mountains. Road to Hallstatt is closed for race. We must take a detour and kill an hour until road opens. He brings us down a very curvy mountain road at Nascar speed, all the while pointing out things along the side of the road. I.e. snow! We get to a little “willage” and go through to where the road ends. It breathtaking!
A lake in the middle of the Alps covered with snow. People are skiing. Called a tour-they hike up the mountain with their skis and gear and then ski down. Beautiful! We take lots of pictures and go for a walk on the path around the lake. Low and behold, Ernest finds me 2 cassettes for the video camera at a little souvenir stand. I am overjoyed.
We are on our way to Hallstatt. This place is especially special to us. Watching the LPB program, ‘Visions of Austria” is what inspired this whole trip. It all started with us saying “Can you imagine going to a place like that?” We are very excited as we approach the “willage”. We soon realize that the whole town is built on a tunnel. Ernest sets up a meeting point and we are on our own! It’s magnificent! We stumble upon a band playing in the town square and realize this is where the race finished. The town was abuzz with people. We found a neat little place to have lunch overlooking the town and the lake and of course, the Alps.
Watched the ducks in the lake. I had Weiner schnitzel, David had rump steak. Next we took a ferry across the lake to get a view from the water. It is amazing how they just built these huge house into the side of the mountain, one on top of the other. It was just as we had seen it on TV. WOW! We take pictures and head back to town. Met up with Ernest and head back to Salzburg. About halfway back, Ernest asks if we want to see a waterfall? Sure! He pulls into this little village and drives to a dead end. Okay we walk from here. It was a little hike up a mountain along rapids and it was worth it when we got to the top. A huge waterfall awaited us.
We used our plastic cup from the hotel in Venice to drink water straight from the fall. It was crystal clear like bottled water. He told us it never dries up! Took lots of pictures & headed back down to a bridge running over the rapids. More pictures. Then back to Salzburg.
We head back to the hotel. We have saved and carried a bottle of wine that we bought at the vineyard in Tuscany to drink in Hallstatt, but we forgot it in the car. So we decided to take it to the Salzach River in Salzburg and drink it while the sun goes down over the river. We picked a spot and uncorked our wine. Drank a glass and moved out of the grass to the benches. Not as earthy as we thought we were. We decide to see if we can go up to the fortress. The sun was still shining up there. After a long walk, surprise it is open! The tram takes us to the top. Beautiful view and sunset overlooking Salzburg.
We find a bench and finish our special “Super Tuscan” wine in the fortress built in the 14
th century overlooking the sunset on Salzburg.
Head back to hotel and order room service. 2 cheeseburgers and fries! On to Vienna in the morning.
5/4/09 Monday - Salzburg, Austria to Vienna, Austria
We went over to the Austrian Poste to ship back some of our clothes, shoes we were no longer wearing and souvenirs. We lighten our load by 35lbs. (80e) Who knows when we will actually get this package! Get a taxi to the train station. Find our seats, very confusing! Who is on the train, but the Ashers from our previous train ride. 2 hours later, we arrive in Vienna. We invite them to our hotel for drinks at 6:30. check-in and went walk around. Got pizza. Came back to Hotel Bristol. Brad, Beth and their 20 yr old son Dan met us at 6:30. After drinks, we decided to have dinner. We filled them in on the train saga. We went to a traditional Viennese restaurant. Weiner schnitzel and fried Beef w/ vegetable. Dan had been in Austria since January, so it was interesting talking to him. We bid farewell. Too sleepy for anything else.
5/5/09 Tuesday – Vienna, Austria
WE got on the Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) Bus. Saw many sights around inner Vienna. The buildings are unbelievable. I am not fatuated with taking pictures of the beautiful domes on these buildings as you will see in the pictures. Got on a different bus and went to Schonnbrunn Palace. We spent the day touring the palace and the gardens. Even learned how to make apple strudel. It is incredible to think this was the Royal family, The Habsburgs ‘summer palace’. They ruled from the 13
th century to the 19
th century.Spent hours here and still didn’t see everything.
We head back to the hotel. David takes a nap. I take a bubble bath and have a well deserved glass of champagne.
We got freshened up and decided to walk to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Lots of activity around the Cathedral. We got a bottle of wine, David got a cigar and we did a carriage ride around Vienna 1hr (95e) Wonderful!
We found a steak house near the hotel. Surprise, it was a wonderful meal!
Time for bed!
5/6/09 Wednesday – Vienna, Austria
After breakfast, we went to the morning exercises for the Lipizzaner Stallions, the white horses that perform at the Spanish Riding School. It was really interesting. It almost looks like the horses dance.
Got on the HOHO bus to the Prater, an amusement park. Rode the giant ferris wheel built over 100 years ago. Wonderful view of the city. The amusement park was eerily quiet. It was like we were the only ones there and everything was open. It was kind of spooky. Ate lunch and left. Back on the HOHO bus back to the hotel. Time to rest. I decide to go to the mall next door. Just as I walk in I bust my butt or my knee rather falling over a step. I give up. mainly because I can barely walk! I go back to hotel and take a bath. We are going home black and blue! We will eat dinner in the hotel tonight. Wonderful view from restaurant overlooking the Opera House across the street.
5/7/09 Thursday – Vienna, Austria to Paris, France
Our flight leaves at 11am. We leave hotel at 8am. The airport in Vienna is full of duty free shopping and is kind of dirty. Full of strange looking people. David reads, I start watching Marley and Me on my IPod. We flew out at 11:20. The more I watch this show, the more I miss Jack. I was truly a basket case on the plane. It took all I had not to cry out loud.
We arrive in Paris at 1pm. Got a taxi to Hotel Warwick on the corner of Rue de berri and Champs Elysee (about 2 blocks from the Arch de Triomphe). Magical driving down the Champs Elysee to our hotel. Check-in. Very nice hotel. Our 1st room was on the 4
th floor, no balcony. I called to see if they had one available with balcony. They moved us to the 1
st floor which is really the 2
nd. the actual first is 0. The balcony was wonderful!
We decided to take a walk down to the Arch. On the way, we stopped at a café for lunch. Salad with gorgonzola cheese and walnuts and a plate of fried vegetables(which was called French Fry Plate on menu). There were gypsies everywhere. They were everywhere in Italy, but to us seemed more visible here. The perfectly healthy ones would walk up to you, ask if you speak English and hold up a sign asking for money. Many healthy and deformed would just sit on the sidewalk with a cup in front of them. Still we did not focus on this, it was lunch on the Champs Elysee.
The next day was going to be a holiday. May 8 is Victory Day in Europe to celebrate the end of WWII. The Arch de Triomphe is a monument to all who fought for France, particularly during WWII. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier lies beneath the Arch. As it turns out , we could not go to the top on this day because they were having a ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, so it was neat to watch that. We took the tunnel that goes from one side of the street to the Arch under about 12 lanes of traffic in the roundabout. When we got back to the street side, we got on the Hop On Hop Off bus, Les Cars Rouge (the red buses) (24e for two days pp) Amazing sights. They play wonderful music in your earbuds while driving around Paris. This is the way to see the city! Got off at stop right across the river from the Eiffel Tower. Took lots of photos with other tourists. We spotted a bar right next to us overlooking the Eiffel Tower. Took us a long time to find the entrance to Café De L’homme. Finally arrived and what a view. Sat almost in stunned silence. A toast-“To Paris!” A glass of chardonnay overlooking the Eiffel Tower at 5pm, C’est Bonne!
We get the check and head to the Eiffel Tower. Walk through the park, past the antique Merry Go Round, across the bridge over the Seine River. Magnificent! The line was not too bad, so we decided to go up. Later we would learn we were there at just the right time, every time we went by there for the rest of our stay, the line looked 4-5- hours long. (13e pp to go all the way to the top) Acutely aware of Swine flu, trying not to touch too much! Take 1st elevator to the second level, 25 min wait for the next elevator to the top. Breathtaking views of Paris. The sun was beginning to set. Took lots of pictures and are ready for our descent down. Didn’t realize until we got to the bottom the Tower was lit up. We sat down on a bench under the Tower and just took it in.
We decided to go back to Café De L’homme for dinner. David was reluctant about walking all the way back, but we were both happy we did. We had to wait for an outdoor table, but it was worth it. Front row table overlooking the Eiffel Tower light show! 10 minutes at the top of every hour. Took lots of pictures.
Couple next to us had their dog sleeping at their feet. I miss Jack again. People bring their dogs with them everywhere, You see them on the buses, trains, restaurants in all of Europe. In most places, I do not think they have leash laws. For sure not in Venice.
Next, dessert. Crème Brulee of course! Au revoir Tower, see you tomorrow!
Get cab back to hotel. Very tired.
5/8/09 Friday – Paris, France
Wake at 6:30 Dap won’t wake up. I go back to sleep. We wake at 9. I could kick myself for sleeping so late. Go to breakfast-lots of bread, clod cuts, cheese, egg, sausage of course pastries.
Head on over to our HOHO bus stop 1 block from hotel. I threw away the receipts! We had to buy two more. Finally settled on bus. It’s chilly today. feels great.
We do more of the tour before getting off pass the Eiffel Tower, bridges, Seine, Louvre, Notre Dame and decide to get off at Notre Dame. Tour Notre Dame, light yet another candle, say a prayer. Beautiful mass going on. Stop a minute to take it in. Took pictures outside. Did some shopping. Walked along the Seine, stopping to take pictures along the way.
We decide to take a boat tour on the river. David buys two small bottles of wine for the trip while I get tickets. Oops only accept cash, almost have to sell back one of the wines. We have to find a bankomat(ATM). Paris from the boat was beautiful(I have run out of adjectives!) It was very chilly. Notice in the pictures David is wearing my cape. We even saw the restaurant we are going to this evening. La Tour d’Argent(The Silver Tower). 1 hour later, we are docking again. More walking, we find a café for lunch overlooking the Seine. Got wine, French fries(It is France) and pizza! We have eaten pizza more than anything and it’s always different, unique.
Next stop, a bamkomat. We got a taxi back to hotel to rest and regroup. David napped, I sat on balcony having cocktail, trying to plan the next day. Nap, dress and We are off for our 7:30 reservation. Richard Z suggested this place. David grimaces at having to wear a coat and tie after 2 ½ weeks, but it is cold, so not too bad. We arrive and are escorted to the bar. Have a glass of wine and then we are escorted to our table. This in one of the oldest restaurants in Paris and is rated as having the best romantic view. We were not disappointed. It overlooks Notre Dame and the Seine from about 6 stories up. I ask for the wine list. The waiter brings a book about 7 inches thick. I am overwhelmed and he gladly picks one for us. David has prawns and Duck with cherry sauce entrée, I have fillets of sole w/ mousse flavored mustard and truffled tartar sauce and Lobster entrée. For dessert, crepes made to order!
Took a few pictures and head back to hotel in a taxi. Exhausted!
5/9/09 Saturday – Paris, France
Last day of the trip. It seems like we just left a few days ago. It is with sadness that I begin this day, wanting it to last a long time. We got an early start at 8am to breakfast. 9am to HOHO bus. Take tour to Louvre and got off. Find our way to the entrance, thank god for all the guide books I brought! It is so big, the guide said that if you spent 3 seconds in front of every work of art, it would take you three months 24 hrs a day to see everything! We barely cover 1/5 of it. David has to see “Mona”. He said she looks at him bed every morning and he feels he owes it to the fake in our bedroom to see the real thing!
After 11/2 we have enough. After 2 ½ weeks the art and churches have begin to run together in our minds.
Took a walk along the Seine back to the HOHO bus stop. Americans along the way “Will you take our pic?” “Yes, will you take ours?” It’s amazing how fast you will talk to some when you speak the same language amongst millions that don’t. We actually “friendly bobbed” more than any other trip.
Got back on the bus and continued tour. We got off around the Old Opera House. The architecture is unbelievable. Stopped at a Pizzeria for lunch on Ru La Fayette. Back to HOHO bus. It starts to drizzle. All of the buses that we did these tours on in Paris and everywhere else were open top double decker buses. So we down inside the bus. We got off on the Champs Elysee. WE have a show to go to tonight. David heads for a nap and I head out for some retail therapy to fight the rainy weather in Paris. I walked down the Champs Elysee by myself. Although it was much better with David, I enjoyed myself. Walking in the drizzling rain with my umbrella in Paris. Every sentence just sounds better when you end it with “in Paris”, “in Rome”, “in Florence”, in “Venice”, “in Austria” doesn’t it?
I buy souvenirs, I wonder into Louis Vuitton. I stop by Lancel, I linger through the Cartier store. Okay enough. I need to buy something. I settle on a glass on wine at a small café. I sit by myself and celebrate Paris. I get teary eyed. I wasn’t ready to go home!
I head back to hotel. Slip into bed for a quick nap.
I dress, meet David in the bar and we decided to have dinner in the bar. David had a sandwich and I had pasta. Cab to the Crazy Horse Saloon. Nude show with seductive lighting. It was okay. Had a bottle of champagne. We liked the two dancers, twin men tap dancing who kept their clothes on. Very different from show in Vegas. All women were painfully natural. Taxi back to hotel. To bed!
5/10/09 Sunday – Paris, France
Leave hotel at 6am for our flight. It was strange that the sun didn’t go down the night before until about 9pm and it was already up this morning at 6am. Last glimpse of Paris: Arch de Triomphe! Kind of got turned around in the airport. Got coffee and boarded the plane. Au revoir Paris!
We or I should say I slept most of the way back. Watched movies, Last chance Harvey and Slumdog Millionaire. Finally arrived in Atlanta 1:45 pm Atlanta time (7:45pm Paris time) 3 hour layover, customs, recheck baggage. We really didn’t know where to go. Find our gate. Stop and have a drink. Run into John and Pam Zuschlag-on same flight!
4pm board flight to Lafayette. Mandie picks us up. Get home and Jackson is waiting for us! Finally sit down, relax, order Chinese food. Go to bed 8pm… not for the jet lag. Much worse coming back than going.
Endnote:
I never would have dreamed that we would have been so enamored with the history of these places. we were truly taken in! It is just amazing to go on a tour and the guide talks about this being built a couple thousand years ago or even several hundred years ago. It has a way of making your life feel very small in the big scheme of things. We both felt that and repeatedly were in awe of the history behind these places. Going into the trip, I said, we aren’t that interested in history, but changed our tune once we were in the midst of it. It is all too much to go into detail here.
One constant thing that we kept saying throughout the trip was that we hope & wish that everyone we love will go to these places and experience them. I will hold these memories in my heart forever. There is no greater thing in this world than to experience new places with your best friend. My heart was very full the whole time and it was all I could do to keep from being downright sappy. For the most part, I think David would agree that Venice was our favorite city, probably because we are both drawn to the water. Not to mention the laid back lifestyle.
These people live very long happy, rich lives full of culture and a zest for life. We found that everywhere in Europe. They truly have a different mindset than Americans. They are much more interested in how you live your life than what you do for a living. In Austria, they are an extremely prideful people. No litter, everything neat and tidy. They have a great respect for the environment and learning new ways to better their quality of life. It just seems like most of the people we encountered were always saying it’s good, just sit back and relax!
But we have so many favorite moments in everyplace:
Hallstatt, Austria- our inspiration
Our Segway tour in Rome – our laughter unleashed
Drinking our “special” bottle of wine in Salzburg-our romance growing
Being separated in Austria by the train-our fear released
Our wine lunch in Tuscany- our learning experience.
Our tours of museums - our cultural experience.
Our merry-go-round ride in Florence – our child within being released
Our steak dinner in Vienna after our carriage ride – our stumbled upon surprise
Our 1st glass of wine and dinner overlooking the Eiffel Tower in Paris - our moment together
The toasts we made to the cities, each other and everyone back home –our love we share
The beautiful architecture – Our sights delighted
The churches, cathedral, duomos – Our spiritual awareness heightened
Our gondola ride in Venice – Our magical experience.
Too many more to list. Suffice to say, we had a fantastic time!
Our Jetlag Log:
5/11/09 Monday - Lafayette
David wakes at 1:30am can’t sleep(It is 8:30am in Europe) Does paperwork. I wake at 3am. Made for a long day. Unpack, do laundry.
We went to bed at 8pm
5/12/09 Tuesday-Lafayette
David up at 3am, me 5am
Go to bed 9:30pm
5/13/09 Wednesday – Lafayette
Both up at 4:30am
David fell asleep at 7pm; I fell asleep at 9pm
5/14/09 Thursday – Lafayette
David up at 4:30; I’m up at 7:00
Finally back to normal
